1/25/2024 0 Comments Back to the future flux capacitor![]() Instead, I made the relay bases by laminating 2 x 12mm and 1 x 6mm blocks of MDF together and cut the circular profile roughly, then sanded them smooth using my drill press as a lathe (well, it works!). The relay bases are Ø49 x 30 thick and I guess I could’ve bought a Ø50 hole saw and cut these out from a block of pine or something, but I didn’t want to buy a Ø50 hole saw just for a one-off. Like the hinges there is not enough clearance for mounting screws, but because the catches are visible, I cut the heads off some screws and glued them into the mounting holes of the catch just to make it look realistic. The catch I used was an over centre fastener that I found in Bunnings. The hinges are fixed in position using contact adhesive, as there was is not enough clearance between the lid and the box for screws or rivets. I just had enough to cut two equal lengths of 100mm. The hinge for the lid is a bit of continuous hinge I had left over from a toy box I made. I had to repeat this process no less than 5 times to completely iron out the buckling. I then used some masking tape to push the rubber down while it was hot in order to remove the buckling. To solve this problem, I heated the rubber with a hairdryer to make it more pliable. The next problem was that the rubber seal didn’t take too kindly to being shaped around such a tight corner, so it buckled quite a bit. ![]() I actually had to do it twice because on the first attempt I cut the rubber seal about 5mm too short. Fitting the rubber seal and the window into the cut out proved to be very tricky indeed and took quite a while. The window in the lid is cut from 3mm thick Perspex sheet that I bought on eBay and is about 3mm smaller all around than the cut out in the lid. To achieve the outside radius on the rubber I simply used scissors and for the inside radius I used a leather punch. The rubber gasket that runs around the face of the boss is made from 4 flat strips of rubber 1.5mm thick. The enclosure and lid then received 1 coat of undercoat and a few coats of Battleship. It’s actually really good quality spray paint - and only $6.99 a can! I also found the same spray paint at an art shop called Eckersleys (although it was $9.99 here. The paint colour used for the enclosure is `Battleship Grey’ and after much searching I found a brand of spray paint called `IronLak’ at Officeworks (that had a colour called `Battleship’. The corners are shaped from solid blocks of pine and all are fixed in position using PVA adhesive. The lid front face and sides are made from 3mm MDF. These are to hold the backing board in position. On the other side is an M5 nut which gets fixed into a counterbored hole (concentric with the Ø6mm hole) with two-part epoxy adhesive. In each corner of the enclosure is a square of 12mm MDF with a Ø6mm hole in it. It’s amazing how good the inside fillets look using this method! You can then sand the filler with a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel with a slightly smaller radius. All outside fillets can be achieved with careful sanding, and to get the inside fillets I applied some ready-to-use multipurpose filler with my little finger. The boss on the front face is made from pieces of 20 x 8mm moulding. For extra strength I fitted 12 x 12mm mouldings all around the inside of the side panels. The four side panels are cut from 3mm MDF and fixed into position on the back panel using PVA adhesive. To make the Enclosure I cut the shape for the back panel from 6mm MDF. The Enclosure is basically a deep, rectangular box with two small mounting flanges top and bottom and a wide `boss’ all around the front face. sheet could now easily be determined from my drawing. sheet and created my own drawing from that. I did find them on another site for around $130, but I decided to make my own enclosure instead. During my research I found out that the enclosure is a Stahlin J1210HPL and on their website these cost around $170 + postage.
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